Things are looking up for downtown Los Angeles these days, as more restaurants and hotels in the area consider a return to the neighborhood, as well as, soon, more and more restaurants and hotels in the area. office workers and tourists. The Bottega Louie marble-lined jewelry box returns next week, and now another Paris-influenced operation has reopened its own golden doors nearby, but this time with a slightly different perspective and focus. Here is what is it happens with wolves, the awesome downtown LA cocktail bar at 519 S. Spring Street.
First of all, it’s important to know that the Wolves space itself, with its scalloped gilded ceiling, inlaid wood details, and wrought-iron touches, has returned largely intact. The steampunk-meets-Paris bar and dining room – named one of Eater’s finest rooms in 2018 – has remained intact since the shutdown at the start of the ongoing global pandemic, and people are already inside taking pictures again.
What has changed, however, is the direction of food and the general focus of the operation. Chef Laurent Quenioux, a famous veteran of Franco-Californian cuisine whose peers include names like the much-vaunted Joachim Splichal, is on supervise the culinary side hotspot focused on cocktails. Quenioux will not only bring his brand of French home cooking (refined over decades of working on pop-ups and in real city bistros) to Wolves, but the arrival of the menu means full seating, waiters and everything in between – not just ordering pub food from the bar. Quenioux will run the kitchen, making dishes like sautéed duck hearts with wild mushrooms, while also using lots of imported cheese and cold cuts.
Quenioux will endeavor to match its food with the bar’s ongoing and extensive cocktail menus, led by bartender Nathan McCullough (Mezcalero, Bracero de San Diego). There will be revolving drinks that change often as well as classics that never leave the menu, as well as rarer things like a cognac-based spirit from Stephen Soderbergh (who is friends with Wolves owner Isaac Mejia) and mezcal and more difficult to find tequilas. . The upstairs bar, which will open in the coming weeks, will be a more experimental upscale space for cocktails and mixology, and will likely also feature one-off Quenioux pop-up dinners, with an emphasis on luxury ingredients and sourcing. .
The kitchen of Quenioux is now available at the wolves have reopened on Spring Street, with dining hours starting at 5 p.m. at 11 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday; the bar stays open until 1 a.m. or later.