Last name: at Henry’s
Contact: 922 Queen Street West, henrystorento.ca, @henrys.to
Piece: Queen West West
Owners: Roxanne and Ben Hodson
Cooks: Kevin Le, Alex Fields
Seats: 51 inside
Accessibility: Not fully accessible
The symbiosis between food and wine is the guiding principle of this Queen West cuisine. What’s available by the glass changes weekly, as does the menu; the kitchen consults closely with the front of house to ensure their offerings are consistent and hit base before each service. Chefs Le and Fields, alumni of Noma and Momofuku Kojin respectively, emphasize menu seasonality, working with suppliers like 100km Foods and Woodward Meats.
Expect unexpected flavor combinations, like skate wing in a lively pool of green coconut curry sprinkled with Kashmiri chili oil, heirloom tomato with browned butter plums and macerated strawberries with a beautiful chamomile stem infused oil. It’s fine dining, but without gratuitous complexity and well suited to be enjoyed with a glass of something special.
Co-owner Ben Hodson also runs Brix and mortar, a wine import agency that focuses on traditional, mostly old-world bottles from family owned vineyards. If you’re looking for a break from the funk of the natural wine scene, you’ll find it here. (Hodson has a thing for magnums, so it’s a solid place to throw a big party.) The large and growing list is likely to offer something new with every visit. And if you want to take your favorite bottle (or five) home, there’s a little bottle store next to the dining room.
A clean palette of cream, green and gold gives the room a warm glow accented by soft curves and whitewashed walls. At the front, a U-shaped marble bar comfortably accommodates 15 people, leading to a large dining room with mostly cozy benches. The bottle store next to the dining room doubles as a special event and tasting space.