Saddleberk serves a farm-to-table menu at the North Dublin Market


GA Benton

I recently dug into a salad presented in a cardboard container by a meat-centric food stall with a small menu and an eye-catching butcher case. Yes, I might have tempted fate, but this salad was better than many I’ve eaten at full-service restaurants.

That tells you a thing or two about Saddleberk, the operation that made the salad. But that only scratches the surface of the artisan butcher, grocery store and short-lived restaurant that occupies a visibly large and prominent space inside Dublin. North Market Bridge Park.

Here is more information. The owners of Saddleberk are John Sommers – whose family farm in Urbana gives the company the name – and the founders of Watershed Distillery and Watershed Kitchen & Bar, Greg Lehman and Dave Rigo.

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This makes for a great town-country partnership in which Saddleberk’s agricultural arm – the Urbana Estate specializes in heirloom Berkshire pigs – lays the farm-to-table foundation for a stylish suburban business with a strong emphasis on heirlooms. local and quality ingredients.

The Butcher burger with fries and a shake at Saddleberk

From homemade deli meats and spice blends to Ohio vegetables, pasture-raised eggs as well as high-quality cheeses and other dairy products, some of these ingredients are sold as groceries at North Market Saddleberk. Others help enhance the crowd-pleasing, tasty, well-priced, and quickly-prepared dishes cooked on the fly in the Saddleberk Kitchen by Jack Dale Bennett, a former sous-chef at Watershed Kitchen & Bar.

To get right to the point, Saddleberk’s terrific schnitzel might be the best deal for a pork chop in town ($ 9). One of about a dozen items regularly on offer – most of them rigged sandwiches – the tender, juicy, large piece of Berkshire pork was coated in crisp, golden panko breadcrumbs, and sliced ​​into easy-to-eat strips. Served over arugula and with a sweet and spicy grainy mustard dip, this is Ohio’s answer to tonkatsu, a Japanese classic.

Add to it the aforementioned green salad ($ 6) – pristine greens, cheerful house dressing, delicious homemade croutons (delicious but crispy, bursting with garlic and herbs), slices of celery, carrots and fine radishes like razors – and you have a good meal.

If you add the more substantial antipasto salad ($ 9) instead, which is loaded with silky, smoky ham, good olives (green and black), sun-dried tomatoes, and pieces of pork bacon ( but not crispy when I had them), you’ll have dinner for two.

For hand punching, try the Pork Sandwich ($ 13): Excellent pulled meat loaded into a toast bun (local sources from Saddleberk Italian bakery Auddino products) covered with a seductive blanket of grilled provolone and served with a tangy, almost dazzling broth, enriched with roasted red peppers.

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I liked the roast beast sandwich even better ($ 13): an exceptional homemade roast beef, pickled peppers, spicy giardiniera-type vegetables, a cheese sauce that I wanted more of, as well as sun-dried tomatoes. .

Crispy Wings and Saddleberk Shake

All sandwiches – including the top notch Saddleberk Butcher’s Burger ($ 13) assembled with an impressive homemade patty, caramelized onions, melted American cheese, tangy and sweet house pickles, a tangy “sassy” sauce and a little Toast – come with fries that can and should be made into crisp and golden waffle fries for $ 3.

Fans of chicken wings will be rewarded with six crispy whole wings (or 12 pieces) for $ 9, which is a steal these days. Bonus: they arrive with a rich house ranch enriched with dill and slathered with a hot black cap sauce made from fermented sambal and developed by Chef Jack Moore of Watershed Kitchen & Bar.

A special sandwich (around $ 13) and soup of the day (usually $ 4) are usually available, and – based on the beef stew-like paprikash that I loved and the Cuban porchetta sandwich that I loved. I missed it – I recommend ordering anything tempting, for fear of causing regrets later.

Such regrets dissolve in oh and uh while sipping on a soothing Saddleberk milkshake ($ 6) as the s’more seasonal special. Following some great advice from the waiter, I made the “power move” by mixing it with high quality chocolate milk.

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Boucher Saddleberk – Restaurant – Grocery

Or: 6750 Longshore Drive, North Market Bridge Park

Contact: 614-683-8795, www.northmarket.org/merchant/saddleberk

Hours: from 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. from Tuesday to Sunday; closed on Mondays

Price range: $ 6 to $ 13

Atmosphere: Bridge Park North Market’s premier food stall, grocery store and butcher with prompt and gracious service

Children menu: no

Reservations: no

Accessible: Yes

Alcohol license: no

Quick click: A small sandwich-centric menu is enhanced with farm-to-table ingredients and skillful scratching cooking at this welcome new market food stall with a solid pedigree.


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